Robin PC Build

[RedBreastGaming]

Robin's PC Build

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Wednesday 13^th July
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 13 36.4 CFM CPU Cooler  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Wednesday 13^th July
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Wednesday 13^th July
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Wednesday 13^th July
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  (Amazon.com) | Received Monday 11^th July
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Amazon.com) | Received Monday 11^th July
Video Card: Palit GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GameRock Premium Video Card  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Wednesday 13^th July
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase 5 ATX Mid Tower Case  (AWD-IT.com) | Expected Monday 11^th July
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (Amazon.com) | Received Monday 11^th July
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit  (Amazon.com) | Received Tuesday 12^th July
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Chroma Gaming Mouse - Black (Amazon.com) | Expected Tuesday 12^th July
Mousemat: Razer Goliathus Speed Gaming Mouse Mat - Small (Amazon.com) | Expected Tuesday 12^th July
Case Fans Arctic 120mm case fans (Amazon.com) | Expected End of this week!


I also got my Pailt 1080 from Here which is much cheaper than expected. If you look at the picture and the clock speeds, the card screams Premium Edition. However, look at the manufactures code, it looks like the normal GameRock version. Edit: AWD-IT confirmed it's the Premium Edition


Edit:
09/07/2016 @ 20:50 - Updated PSU to reflect correct one bought!
11/07/2016 - Updated list to reflect actual places items bought, with dates expected on each.
12/07/2016 - Added / Updated items list. Updated items received. (More as a quick tick list for myself!!)

[bo0td-]

I have three suggestions. Personal preference, but I'd go for this GPU http://eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6286-KR

I'd get a Western Digital drive rather than the Seagate.

I strongly suggest you get a better PSU. The one listed is tier 4.

[GT_Dave]

I have three suggestions. Personal preference, but I'd go for this GPU http://eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6286-KR

I'd get a Western Digital drive rather than the Seagate.

I strongly suggest you get a better PSU. The one listed is tier 4.

The Palit card (if it is the premium) is the fastest out of the box (air cooled) GTX 1080 available, it's also one of the cheapest, cooling solution may not be elegant but it certainly works, it's also the same that is on my 1070 and I'm not sure it's even had the fans running yet haha, it's silent.

The PSU Robin has listed there, I'd happily take one of those, I use a Thermaltake TR2 Challenger 700w which isn't as good and it hasn't skipped a beat in the last year.
Saying that however, reviews aren't great for it so... 

I briefly had a WD Blue last year, granted it was second hand but it failed after a month where as I've had my Seagate for 7+ years and it's still going strong.

Seagate/Western Digital, it's swings and round-a-bouts, both top names in HDDs, don't think you can really go wrong with either unless your unlucky like I was with WD and Bo0td was (iirc) with Seagate.

[bo0td-]

As I said, personal preference with the GPU and HDD. You're not going to notice any difference in real world performance when it comes to clock speeds that are so similar. My card is a Palit, and very happy with it.  EVGA's customer service is the reason I'd pick them.... again, just speaking of my own experience of Seagate, had several fail. Never again. Lol.

That PSU has no Japanese capacitors and is generally considered poor quality. It'll work, and has sufficient power.... but when spending this money I wouldn't skimp on the PSU.

[RedBreastGaming]

Tier 4? 

Apologies, this is the one I've ordered: (Part List in OP updated)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00V5EDNRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I looked at the FTW, however it's another

[bo0td-]

Ignore my advice about the PSU then. The Amazon listing says it has Japanese capacitors. Tier list must be referring to an older model with a similar name.

''The PSU Tier List'' is something that originated on Tomshardware, it gets updated regularly and is widely accepted as gospel when it comes to PSU quality.... in my rush to get to my Chinese I've mistakenly thought yours to be tier 4.... apologies... enjoy!

[RedBreastGaming]

Ignore my advice about the PSU then. The Amazon listing says it has Japanese capacitors. Tier list must be referring to an older model with a similar name.

''The PSU Tier List'' is something that originated on Tomshardware, it gets updated regularly and is widely accepted as gospel when it comes to PSU quality.... in my rush to get to my Chinese I've mistakenly thought yours to be tier 4.... apologies... enjoy!

lol, no worries, my mistake for putting the wrong one.

I've also been looking at the tier list 2.0 since your comment. I didn't even realise there would be differences!!
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

GPU/HDD will always be personal preference. Let's be honest, at this level, any 1080 including the Founders Edition reference cards are over kill!


Edit: What I really wanted to know though, was:
1) Do I buy the PE card I know to be a PE card, and cancel the other one?
2) Which bloody version of Windows should I buy? I have a 32gb flash drive USB so do I just go for OEM version, knowing that it will tie itself to the Mobo?

[bo0td-]

Couldn't agree more. Some people will pay extra for performance, even if it isn't noticeable. My reference 970 has performed as expected when compared to game benchmarks using overclocked cards. So differences between cards with factory overclocks don't strike me as something to worry about.

I was, however, worried that you'd be powering your beast with a  tier PSU, but that's not a worry now.... just make sure ya put that GPU saving toward a copy of Rocket League.

[bo0td-]

Edit: What I really wanted to know though, was:
1) Do I buy the PE card I know to be a PE card, and cancel the other one?
2) Which bloody version of Windows should I buy? I have a 32gb flash drive USB so do I just go for OEM version, knowing that it will tie itself to the Mobo?

1. I don't think anyone else can answer that for you.... how disappointed would you be if what you get isn't PE?

2.  I don't think I can help with this either. Mine is Win 10 Pro, upgraded from a retail copy of 8, which itself was an upgrade from retail 7. Lol.

You can get keys here https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/ entirely at your own risk and the actual software direct from Microsoft.

[GT_Dave]

I was, however, worried that you'd be powering your beast with a   tier PSU, but that's not a worry now.... just make sure ya put that GPU saving toward a copy of Rocket League.

Agreed completely.

Windows Robin, try to avoid OEM versions, if anything goes wrong with your motherboard and it has to be replaced, you'd have to buy another copy of windows.
If you can find a retail version of windows 8.1 Pro, it'll be cheaper than windows 10 home and you can upgrade for free to windows 10 pro (the free upgrade ends soon though so be careful).

[RedBreastGaming]

OK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-FQC-06914-Windows-8-1-Pro/dp/B00FRAE7I4

I'm happy to pay

[GT_Dave]

 That copy of windows is OEM and proper disk copies, not digital download.

I'd recommend not gaming over wireless if you can avoid it, I have a 30ft (10m) ethernet cable which cost about as much as that wireless card, how would Claire feel about one of those running through the apartment?

If you absolutely have to go with wireless though, that one should be fine I suppose, it's 5G capable but, I don't know much about wireless in all fairness.
Sian says AC is better than N900 though so if you can stretch the extra

[bo0td-]

I removed the wireless card from my case, complete shite. Barely works with the PC right next to the router.

I have the Microsoft Sculpt Comfort Mouse (Bluetooth). Recommend it highly for normal PC usage. I'm sure gamers would think differently, but they'd also have a higher budget.

[RedBreastGaming]

So. I just went ahead and bought the full Windows 10 Home USB stick version from Amazon.

A bit more expensive, however after reading forums and reviews and more forums, I found out I was dead.  Seriously though, I read too many horror stories about what happens if components fail, and how it could be really easy or really hard to re-install and activate windows, that I thought, f-it, I'll just buy the full version of the latest version.

In other news, the Palit Gamerock card from AWD-it is definitely the Premium Edition. Confirmed by both text and calling their team. So very chuffed with that!!

Finally however, not getting my Case, CPU, MOBO, RAM (and cooler) until Wednesday. These next two days are going to draaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag.


P.S. Still need a mouse too.

[GT_Dave]

P.S. Still need a mouse too.

Don't skimp on the mouse! DPI can be the difference between a headshot and a miss, read the reviews and try and be 2400DPI or above, buttons on the mouse seem trivial given your using a keyboard but, having 2+ additional (programmable) buttons can actually be quite beneficial.

I have 2 additional buttons on mine, used primarily for FPS, favored weapon slot and reload, saves time reaching for "R" or 3 in a fire fight